By a guy who sometimes forgets his own kids’ names – aka Craig Parvess
Teenagers. No Wi-Fi. Deep bushveld. What could possibly go wrong?
So picture this: my wife and two teenage daughters in tow, and me – one slightly overwhelmed dad – on a four-night family safari adventure deep in the northernmost corner of the Kruger National Park at RETURN Africa’s Pafuri Camp. I know what you’re thinking: teenagers, no Wi-Fi in the rooms, and remote wildness? Sounds like a survival show setup. But what unfolded was something far more magical, soulful, and, if you ask my eldest… healing.
Image courtesy of Craig Parvess
The Setup: A Tent Fit for Four… and All Their Opinions
We stayed in a family tent, and yes, it was surprisingly comfortable, even with two teenage girls who require at least four pillows each and have strong thoughts on where the power outlets should be. The tent was spacious enough to avoid the usual toothpaste wars, and the view of the Luvuvhu River? Instant therapy.
Hospitality That Knows Your Name (Even When You Don’t)
Within minutes of arrival, the staff – the majority from the local Makuleke community – knew all our names. All of them. Meanwhile, I sometimes pause and go, “Hey you, older one,” whilst stumbling to remember my daughter’s names! My girls were blown away. It’s the little things, right? That kind of attention makes you feel less like a guest and more like a long-lost cousin showing up at the world’s most scenic family reunion.
Image courtesy of RETURN Africa
A Soulful Reset
After four nights here, my 18-year-old looked at me and said, “I feel complete again.” Which, as a parent, is the kind of thing that cracks your heart open in the best way. There’s something about the stillness, the wildness, and the rhythm of Pafuri that reaches into places untouched by school stress, social drama, and screen time.
Brighton, Devil’s Thorn, and the World’s Best Teacher
Our guide, Brighton, was a legend. He taught us things I never learned in school, like how to wash your hands with a Devil’s Thorn flower. Turns out, nature makes a better teacher than I possibly ever have. He had this gentle, patient way of explaining things that kept even the younger kids in another family fully engaged and wide-eyed.
And the Makuleke Contractual National Park? Wow. This place is a safari secret. We drove for hours and saw maybe two other game vehicles. This is your spot if you’re into privacy (or just pretending you’ve got your own private national park). Not to mention the people, and the partnership with the Makuleke that makes this all possible.
Image courtesy of Craig Parvess
We explored:
- Banyini Pan – a birder’s paradise, even if you’re not a birder (yet).
- Lanner Gorge – with a view so vast it practically begs for poetry.
- Makwadzi Pan – picnic brunch in the drizzle… even rain felt poetic.
It’s no surprise this place is so alive. The Makuleke Contractual National Park packs over 75% of Kruger’s biodiversity into just 1% of its land. You feel it everywhere: birdsong, movement in the trees, the sense that something magical might appear at any second, which, for us, it did with a rare sighting of a Pel’s fishing owl, something we’re told birders spend their lives searching for.
Image courtesy of Craig Parvess
The Thulamela Moment
One morning, we skipped the game drive and went on a cultural tour to Thulamela Ruins with Godfrey, the camp’s GM and storytelling guru. There was another family on the tour with a teenage daughter, and let me tell you, Godfrey knew exactly how to read the room. At a massive baobab up near the Thulamela Ruins, he got the three girls to climb into the tree for what can only be described as an Instagram masterpiece.
And then, Crooks Corner. No actual crooks (that we know of), but the only onlookers were a couple of hippos who seemed mildly interested in our history lesson, one that touched on ivory hunters, poachers, Black birders, and the layered past of this little corner of South Africa.
Magic Places Have Magic Names
Then came Reedbuck Vlei and the Fever Tree Forest, the largest in the world. I didn’t even know Fever Tree Forests were a thing. Now my eldest wants to get married in one. Apparently, I’m invited. So, if you’re reading this and you own a tux, clear your schedule for 2035.
Image courtesy of Craig Parvess
Elephants, Hyenas, and a Traffic Jam to Remember
Speaking of big moments, my youngest daughter adores hyenas. Every family has one person who just can’t get enough of these enigmatic creatures. For three days, no luck. Then on our final night, after getting stuck in the most epic elephant traffic jam, elephants on both sides of our vehicle, just doing elephant things, we finally saw a mother hyena and her cub. There were tears. Joyful ones.
The Pool, the Menu, and a Promise to RETURN
Back at camp, the girls lounged by the pool for hours, feet up, watching crocodiles sunbathe and buffalo wander by. Younger families will be happy to know there’s even a kids’ menu (though mine were all about the grown-up stuff – blame the Instagram food reels).
Image courtesy of RETURN Africa
Image courtesy of Craig Parvess
“Can We Go Back Already?”
I’ve never seen my kids more at peace, and I say that as someone who’s survived exam weeks, friend drama, and endless hours of TikTok scrolling. Now they keep asking, “When can we go back?”
To which I say: Soon, I hope. Because if there’s a place where your teenager feels whole again, where your younger one cries happy tears over hyenas, and where you remember exactly why you love being a family…
That’s not just a holiday. That’s a homecoming. A wild one. And the kind you never want to leave.
If you’re wondering whether a safari works for teenagers, here’s your answer: it does. Especially here.
